Molas: What They Are, How to Make Them, Ideas They Suggest for Creative AppliquªE [first edition]

Molas, the appliqué stitchery folkcraft of the Cuna Indians of the San Blas Territory in Panama, have become familiar objects in recent years. This richly illustrated book, with 31 color plates and over 150 black-and-white illustrations, describes their remote island dwellings located at the edge of the jungle, their fascinating society, and the story of how the mola, part of the traditional woman's costume, deveIoped slowly after trading ships began to make trade-goods cotton fabrics available in the mid-nineteenth century. For the craftsman or collector, the book details the range of authentic molas, from relatively simple two-color linear patterns to elaborate, multi-colored designs which depict native flora and fauna, the Indians' own myths and legends, or, frequently, aspects of the modern world such as astronauts, trademarks, political posters, and cigarette packages, all of which are rendered by the Cuna women with a fresh eye. Clear illustrations and instructions show how to make panels of two, three, four, and six basic colors and how to add other hues by means of inlay. They demonstrate that the currently prevalent idea that the Indians use the process known as reverse appliqué is a gross oversimplification. Other unsuspected techniques'are revealed, such as the use of discarded fabric from one mola panel in a second, nearly identical one with some colors reversed. A pair of panels of this sort ordinarily becomes the front and back of the same Indian garment. Instructions for reverse applique are given, since, for over a decade, the technique has been associated with molas. In addition, a general chapter on appliqué makes this book useful to beginners as well as to expert stitchers. The concluding chapter has suggestions for buying molas and simple ideas for using them in clothing and home decoration. There is a full bibliography, including anthropological as well as stitchery references, and an index.